For Lincoln Axarya, fashion is about more than creating beautiful clothes. It is about building a distinctly African luxury brand that challenges convention, creates opportunity and proves that world-class design can emerge from Uganda.
As the founder and creative director of AXARYA, he has built a design language defined by sharp tailoring, clean silhouettes and contemporary luxury, while challenging the notion that African fashion must fit a single mould. Just two years after launching the Kampala-based label, Axarya has become one of Uganda’s emerging fashion voices.
Axarya is also a cultural influencer- “Walker,” for Johnnie Walker Uganda. He collaborated with the brand to launch CELESTIA26, a special-edition apparel line tied to the Johnnie Walker Afro Exchange campaign. He was also the lead designer for the Afro Exchange showcase held in Kampala, in April this year.
On September 5th, he will present that vision on one of the country’s biggest fashion stages when he opens the VIP Grand Finale of Uganda International Fashion Week (UIFW) runway, at the Kampala Serena Hotel.
Axarya spoke to us about the inspiration behind his brand, the realities of building a fashion business in Uganda, and why he believes African luxury can compete on the global stage.
What does the name AXARYA mean, how does it represent you as a person, and how has it shaped your journey?
The name AXARYA means ‘helped by God,’ in Hebrew. So, for me the name is more than a fashion label. It is a reflection of faith, purpose and resilience. Building a contemporary luxury brand in an emerging market comes with many challenges, from limited access to capital to sourcing quality materials and navigating an evolving industry. Remembering that the brand is “helped by God” keeps me grounded and reminds me that every challenge is part of a bigger purpose. It pushes me to pursue excellence and keep building with confidence.
What gap did you see in the market inspired to start the AXARYA brand?
I saw a gap for contemporary, well-structured clothing that sat between casual streetwear and traditional formal wear. At the time, many consumers had to choose between imported fast fashion and conventional tailoring. I initially focused on menswear because I felt men had fewer stylish local options. The goal was to create a modern affordable luxury brand built on clean lines, quality craftsmanship and timeless design, made in Uganda for people who appreciate contemporary style.
AXARYA started as a menswear label before evolving into a more inclusive brand even for women, did that tell you about how people want to dress today?
It showed me that today’s consumers are less interested in labels and more interested in how clothing makes them feel. Women were buying our menswear because they appreciated the tailoring, comfort and structure. People now want versatile pieces that reflect their personality and confidence, regardless of whether they’re traditionally designed for men or women.
Your work is known for its clean silhouettes, structure and understated style. How would you describe the AXARYA design language, and what makes a piece unmistakably yours?
I would describe it as quiet confidence. Every piece is intentional, with clean lines, balanced proportions and strong tailoring. We remove unnecessary details so the craftsmanship speaks for itself. The goal is to create clothing that stands out without overpowering the person wearing it.
Minimalism often looks effortless, yet it’s one of the hardest styles to perfect. How do you make simple designs feel distinctive?
Minimalism leaves no room to hide mistakes. Every detail matters, from the choice of fabric to the cut and fit of each garment. We can spend weeks refining something as simple as a collar or adjusting the drape of a hem because those small details make all the difference. When someone puts on an AXARYA piece, we want them to immediately feel the quality, comfort and confidence that thoughtful design can bring.
Fashion is often celebrated as art, but behind every collection is a business. What was the biggest lesson you learned when you went from being a designer to running a fashion company?
The biggest lesson was that creativity without structure is just a hobby. Designing clothes is only one part of the journey. Running a fashion business means understanding cash flow, production, partnerships and planning for growth. I’ve learned that discipline and good business practices are just as important as creativity if you want to build a brand that lasts.
African fashion is gaining global recognition, yet many designers still struggle to build sustainable businesses. Why is the industry so challenging?
The biggest challenge is that the ecosystem is still developing. Many designers have to be everything at once: designer, manufacturer, marketer, retailer and logistics manager. Access to quality materials, specialised equipment and funding is still limited, while high import costs make production expensive. We also need greater awareness of intellectual property and stronger support systems so creatives can protect and grow their work.
You were part of the Johnnie Walker Afro Exchange last year, what was the experience like from a fashion perspective?
I had a great time and I love collaboration. It brought about the possibility of connecting different cultures and professional fields. Meeting new people is always a new opportunity for me to learn something new, and I was happy to interact with creatives from other parts of the continent. The Afro Exchange showed me the power of collaboration and made me appreciate how bold culture is and its role in shaping communities and individuals.
Johnnie Walker went on to announce you as their brand ambassador, how is the fusion of fashion and whisky coming?
Fashion is a lifestyle and it cuts across a lot of things, it was only ideal to have us collaborate, and all is developing just perfect. We already have a Johnnie Walker Special Edition collection, with the pallete as the different JW labels; Black. Red, Green and Blue. The accents are color-matched to look like the Black Label liquid and there are plenty of interesting similarities. I would say, simply watch the space!
What are some of the biggest challenges of building a ready-to-wear fashion brand in Uganda?
Sourcing high-quality fabrics consistently is one of our biggest challenges, and in many cases we have to import them. Another challenge is changing consumer perceptions. Many people are willing to pay premium prices for international brands but expect local designers to charge less. That mindset is changing, but it takes time. The best way to change it is by consistently delivering quality, building trust and creating products that people are proud to wear.
Local designers compete with cheap imports and fast fashion every day. How do you convince consumers that locally made clothing is worth investing in?
I don’t think you convince people with words. You convince them through the product. When someone wears an AXARYA piece, they experience the quality, the fit and the craftsmanship for themselves. Our goal is to create timeless wardrobe staples that people can wear for years instead of buying clothes that quickly lose their value. Once customers experience that difference, they begin to see locally made fashion in a new light.
Sustainability has become a major talking point in fashion. Beyond the buzzword, what does it mean at AXARYA?
For us, sustainability starts with intention. We produce in small batches to avoid waste, choose natural and durable fabrics where possible, and design clothing that people will wear for years rather than a single season. To me, true sustainability isn’t just about how a garment is made; it’s about creating pieces that people value enough to keep.
Can sustainable fashion also be affordable and commercially successful in Africa, or does responsible production make that more difficult?
Axarya: It can, but it takes patience. Responsible production often costs more in the beginning, which can be challenging for emerging brands. However, if you focus on quality, timeless designs and efficient production, sustainability becomes a long-term investment rather than an added cost. I believe it’s the future of fashion, not just in Africa but everywhere.
What is your role in this year’s Uganda International Fashion Week?
I am honoured to be the lead designer, opening this year’s Uganda International Fashion Week runway. I have been mentoring and training this year’s models. What has impressed me most is their hunger to grow, build their personal brands, and their ability to adapt. They are not just learning to walk the runway; they are learning to bring each designer’s vision to life. I believe this new generation has the talent, confidence, and potential to compete on the global fashion stage.
Uganda International Fashion Week is placing a strong emphasis on sustainability and innovation this year. How will those ideas be reflected in your collection, and what can audiences expect from your showcase?
They can expect clean tailoring, bold structure and contemporary silhouettes that celebrate modern African luxury. We’ve paid close attention to fabric selection, craftsmanship and detail to create pieces that are both refined and wearable. Above all, I want the collection to show that innovation doesn’t always mean doing more. Sometimes it’s about doing the simple things exceptionally well.
Looking beyond the runway, what legacy do you hope AXARYA will leave on Ugandan and African fashion?
I want AXARYA to help change the way people see African fashion. I hope we’re remembered as a brand that proved contemporary luxury could be built in Kampala and recognised around the world. More importantly, I want the next generation of designers to believe that they can build globally respected fashion houses without losing their identity or leaving home.
